Мила Гајић
историчар уметности, Музеј примењене уметности, Београд


Зборник 4/5/2008/2009 (Музеј примењене уметности), страна 33-43

7.05:671.1”19/20” ; 671.1:069.51(497.11)

Одсек за метал и накит Музеја примењене уметности у Београду представља осамнаест предмета из легата Ирине Симић који се чувају у његовим колекцијама. Реч је о накиту насталом у XIX и XX веку, највећим делом на тлу Европе. У колекцији доминирају брошеви, како бројем тако и разноврсношћу типова. Основни мотив овог текста садржан је у покушају да се поређењем и стилском анализом предмети прецизније одреде у контексту времена у ком су настајали, уз разумевање оновремених тенденција у изради накита.

Кључне речи:
накит, злато, XIX век, колекција, легат, Ирина Симић.

The Metalwork and Jewellery Department of the Museum of Applied Art houses a collection of jewellery from the bequest of Irina Simić. The collection consists of eighteen pieces of jewellery manufactured primarily in Europe during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Irina and Ljubomir Simić originate from urban Russian respectively Serbian families at the turn of the nineteenth century. Objects preserved are partly their family heirloom and partly purchases made during the life of Mrs. Simić. Most numerous are breast and neck worn pieces (brooches, pendants, medallions, necklaces) and bracelets. Material used is primarily gold and silver decorated in many ways – engraved, gilded, polished, embellished with diamonds and precious stones, multicoloured enamel or precious materials (mother of pearl, corals, shells). All the objects, particularly those produced in the nineteenth century, are typical of their time both in the sense of art and craft. However, it is for their look, elegance and craftsmanship that we would single out a lady's watch shaped as pendant (Cat. No. 7) embellished with dark blue guilloché enamel and with an image of a genre scene on its backside; further, a brooch from the second half of the nineteenth century (Cat. No. 2) deserves attention for its most decorative frame which is shaped as a tiny floral stripe of circular cross-section additionally engraved and ornate with black enamel; also a very fine cameo from the 1870s (Cat. No. 5) representing a typified profile of a young woman with carefully worked out details. Among the objects from the twentieth century some of the pieces show traits of traditional, folk art: for example, a silver necklace from Mexico (Cat. No. 16) and hinged bracelets (Cat. No, 14, 15) but there are also works of renowned Belgrade jewelers (Cat. No 10, 11) from the between-the-two-world-wars period.

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